Artusi Ristorante: An Italian sojourn

If there’s another country whose citizens are as passionate about their regional food as India Skeeter would vote for Italy. Though Italian visa has not been stamped on Skeeter’s passport yet, Italy remains in top five of the travel bucket list. Till then Skeeter keeps satiated by sampling Italian culinary offerings in Delhi. Let us be frank. Skeeter was a wee bit shy trying out Artusi Ristorante simply because Diva is practically next door. Ritu Dalmia introduced Skeeter to Italian food (as she did to most of you Skeety believes) few years ago and Skeeter has NEVER gone beyond Diva. Not a wink.

An invite to sample food by Artusi kept sitting in the inbox. There were heaps and heaps of praises in the social circles. Skeeter was growing restless and finally gave in to the temptation. Artusi is a quaint restaurant with limited covers and welcoming interiors. It features food from Emilia Romagna region in Italy and is named after Pellegrino Artusi, one of the founders of Italian cuisine, who penned the first Pan-Italian Cookbook. The owners are Gurpinder and Oscar Balcon, a well-travelled couple who globetrotted before settling in India. Oscar tells that a lot of the food featured on the Artusi menu is just like his mother would prepare.

One walks into the restaurant through a bar that has a deli corner too. The bar is designed such that one can overlook passers by on the street through a full sized glass wall while enjoying their drink. Very European. The lighting was a bit harsh but it could in no way dampen the experience.
The first thing that would strike one is the freshness of the ingredients used. The Rape e Noci salad came first. Roasted deep red beets, water cress, crunchy and juicy green apple slices and walnuts dressed in goat cheese, finished with croutons and balsamic made for a pretty plate and pleasing palate. Emilia Romagnia happens to be the place where the first Balsamic vinegar was aged. The region is also famous for its Parmesan cheese and Parma ham.

The Tomino came next. An Italian cheese roundel (a very generous portion that) melted over a bruschetta that was drizzled with fragrant truffle oil. There were sauteed mixed mushrooms (Skeeter’s favourite Enoki too!)for company. It was a dish that relied on the star ingredients than anything else and worked very well for Skeeter. By now Skeets was very full but she had to sample the pasta and so she called for a small portion of Paglia e Fieno Aurora. This handmade white and green angel hair pasta was a treat to the eyes and was set in a pink sauce with shallots, mushrooms, tomatoes and cream. Skeeter cannot even begin to write about the freshness of this one. The pasta was al dente and the sauce beautifully complemented its texture. A must try.

The meal ended with Artusi signature dessert which was what pulled Skeeter to this Ristorante in the first place. The Panna Cotta Fichi e Mandorle. Panna Cotta with caramelized figs and fig sauce in a lush pool of caramel and beautiful almond slivers. As Skeeter writes this post she cannot but help think of when she will get another bite of it. Soon, very soon.

Zerruco By Zilli

Pre-launch preview of Zerruco By Zilli


Aldo Zilli, one of Skeeter’s favourite Television chefs, opened doors to Zerruco by Zilli at Hotel Ashok this week. Skeeter was invited and she happily hopped, skipped and jumped for the pre-launch preview. It is one thing to see him on TV and another to have him cook for you. Skeeter is a lucky girl! Without further ado, lets gets cracking!


Meeting Zilli
Though Reeta Skeeter finds herself at a loss of words, she will try to sum up her experience here:
Aldo, is a thorough gentleman, and a fine host. If he’s around Skeeter can bet, you will be treated like a royal. Skeeter turns princess?! Aldo noticed that the dining table was more than a couple of inches away from Skeeter and promptly made a correction. He noted Skeeter was the only vegetarian on table and the waiting staff were instructed very well. It often happens that Skeeter is served one non-vegetarian dish at some or the other meal she has. At Zerruco, she did not have to bother.

Zilli tidbits
Zilli has been serving a lot of Indians at Zilli Green and is well aware of the no-egg, no-fish, no-chicken clientele. Read Skeeter was well-fed. He has no qualms about serving his food to vegetarians. After all, he has authored Fresh & Green with over a 100 vegetarian recipes! Most non-Indian chefs opening in India find it a challenge to serve food to vegetarians. For Zilli it was a smooth ride.
Zilli revealed he does not believe in the concept of whole wheat pasta. He said, “it just does not taste the same”. And who would care? There are so many fresh vegetables tossed along with pasta that you do get your share of health food.

Unlike other international chefs foraying into new territory (India), Zilli has had all his fingers in curry thanks to his good friend and Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar who has fed Aldo, a lot of Indian food.
When Manish Baheyti of of Haute Services Pvt. Ltd spoke to good friend Atul Kochhar when they were looking for a chef, it was Kochhar who recommended Aldo Zilli’s name. The rest, as they say, is for us Delhiites to savour at Zerruco by Zilli.

Food at Zerruco by Zilli

We started with warm flatbread served by Aldo Zilli himself! It was accompanied by a very fresh pesto and olive oil, balsamic on the side. Fresh ingredients, which are a Zilli trademark, ruled the table. Minestrone classico, the classic Minestrone soup, got the nod from all on the table with fresh vegetables, beans and baby pasta. It touched the soul. The Melanzane Alla Parmigiana or layers of fried aubergine with tomato sauce, fresh mozarella cheese and basil came next and set the mood for the evening.

Melanzane Alla Parmigiana

Fresh and hot tagliatelle pasta with Mediterranean vegetables and red pepper pesto came plated in a classic way and impressed Skeeter’s tastebuds. A salad with garden fresh lettuce, select olives, roasted bright yellow zucchini, a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of parmesan was rustled up for Skeeter.

Tagliatelle pasta with Mediterranean vegetables and red pepper pesto
Warm salad

And while the stomach was protesting, who can resist a pizza? Skeeter is glad she had it! The Pizza was extraordinary and Skeeter highly recommends it. Skeeter is definitely going back for some more! THE best Pizza in Delhi. The crust, the base sauce, the cheese, the temperature of the pizza while serving it, were all  perfect!

                                            Fragrant rice and vegetable steak

The Tiramisu was fab (though Skeeter prefers the sponge fingers dipped in rum for that spike) and these two (Pizza and a dessert) make or break an Italian meal. Happy to report that Zerruco by Zilli has nailed it!

Tiramisu: Italian classic trifle flavoured with coffee,layered with sponge fingers & mascarpone 

About Aldo

Aldo Zilli is an Italian from Abruzzo and has been living in the United Kingdom, where he rose to fame and is known for his Italian, vegetarian and seafood. Besides being famous for his food, he has authored a few cookbooks, hosts TV shows and is always striving for providing people around him something new and better. You can read more about him here

Where: Zerruco By Zilli, Ashok Hotel, Diplomatic Enclave, 50 B, Chanakya Puri, New Delhi


Of Ravioli rituals at Olive Culinary Academy

Fifteen student chefs, two buddy chefs and a master chef comprise the Olive Culinary Academy structure. For those of you who dine at Olive (Qutub), the sunshine room aka the Greenhouse has been taken over, length to length and breadth to breadth by the first batch of OCA. This, shall remain in force till the OCA finds a permanent home.

The culinary wizard
The trail blazer of this venture, Chef Saby (Sabyasachi Gorai), is a bundle of nerves these days. As Reeta Skeeter chats with him, Saby mumbles something impromptu, “they pulled off that choco mousse cake well. It did not fall apart. It was not perfect but it was not anywhere near what I was fearing it to be.” Clearly, his mind lies in getting every act being performed at OCA right. Skeeter has an opinion here… The OCA students did a fab job at the chocolate mousse cake. Spearheading a culinary academy with an international accreditation and holding the sessions at the premises of a very successful restaurant is not an easy task. But Chef Saby is not the one who is bogged down easily by anything that revolves around his passion: great food and better service. He shows Skeeter his cellphone and reveals it has not internet connectivity. He has even given up his laptop. He took an added responsibility (of the OCA) and tore away from his life what he deemed not-so-important at that point in time. The ever smiling Chef Noor-Al-Sabah and the gracious Subirendra Nath are among the faculty. 
The students
Skeets was on a self-invited visit to the OCA. She arrived when the lunch preparations were in progress. Every evening the 15 student chefs receive on their email addresses, the menu for the next day. They are given some warning as to what they are expected to do the following day. They can read the recipes, do their research and clear doubts with the buddy chefs or the master chef (Saby). The first batch at OCA come across as a confident lot. After all, they are handpicked by a star, after thorough interview rounds. Only two students who are over age(as per the prospectus limit) have been allowed on board. 
The students are a curious mix. There is Divija who comes across as extremely passionate about her new professional path (she is a lawyer and quit her job to study food); there is Sofya who left her job as a tax accountant in NY, came all the way to India and is exploring food. As Divija and Sofya share their experiences, they are rejoiced to discover Stephen’s stint with a middle-eastern restaurant. Divija is cooking up mid-eastern food for a friend’s’ party and promptly asks Stephen for help with some of the food she wants to make. For Pradeep, it is about refining his skills as he has previously studied at a culinary school. Sahil, who has done his BBA in Marketing to make the parents happy, finally coaxed them to let him persuade his passion. Sagar and Akash are from a culinary background. Infact, Akash dropped his Australian study plans when he heard that he could get an opportunity to learn from and work with Saby (cult following?). Yasir, Mansi and Ananya have just finished school and have found the culinary practicals and academics at OCA as their calling. Girish and Ritu are the exceptions among the young lot and are thrilled at what they have learnt at OCA so far.

Observations
Everything at the Greenhouse at Olive seems to be moving in a rhythmic fashion. There’s no causal banter, there are only jokes around food and more, around errors, if any. There are occasional shout-outs from Saby. No student escapes his hawk eyes. As Saby is talking to some visitors at the academy, he shouts at a student that what he has just thrown was pumpkin pulp that could have otherwise been used to make at least one and a half portions of pumpkin soup. The student gets the point and takes it well. The students are given top notch ingredients to work with and they ought to respect the same. They shout orders at each other. The one receiving the order promptly executes the task. This was an absolute delight to watch as it indicates they have been taught to work as a team and they do a mean job of it as is seen in what came. Skeeter has always regarded ravioli making as a ritual which requires utmost devotion, concentration and skill. She was particularly stupefied at the dexterity the OCA students showed at this skill. 
The Pasta ritual
The course
The students are taught at par with industry standards. Since it is a certificate course, it can be completed faster than an associate or bachelor’s program. The one year course has two modules. Module one consists of theory sessions, pictorial and live demonstrations as well as practical sessions. Module two is a 6 month Paid Internship at branches of Olive countrywide. Whilst, the rest of the desired info is up for grabs at the OCA website, what is of particular interest is the TAKE HOME CHEF concept introduced at the OCA. The students at Olive Culinary Academy will come to your home and rustle up a gourmet dinner for you and your guests, assisted by master chefs and senior chefs.

Olive Culinary Academy,
One Style Mile, Mehrauli, New Delhi.
Mobile:+91 880 011 1279
Landline:+91 (011) 2957 4407
E-mail: chefsaby@oliveculinaryacademy.com
E-mail: subir@oliveculinaryacademy.com
E-mail: noor@oliveculinaryacademy.com