Veiled City

Several parda nasheen women pass by Skeety as she walks towards Lal Kuan after getting off the Chawri Bazaar metro station. A five minute walk later she reaches Bade Mian kheerwale. The widest of wide smiles greets her as Jamaluddin invites her in. Skeety feels as if she was the only customer he had been waiting for whole day. Such is old world hospitality. Though in this part of Delhi women walk around in veils and are seldom unaccompanied, those from outside this world are treated with equal respect. Tehzeeb reigns supreme. Skeety is made to sit on a rickety chair but is treated no less than a princess on a PINK chair.
Conversations with Jamaluddin are devoured even as the taste buds await the kheer. Questions shot by Skeety are answered with perseverance.
And then enters the much acclaimed kheer. Converstaions halt. The dessert made from rice, milk and sweet (sugar and/or jaggery) over slow fire, enters the mouth. New age gelatos cannot match this taste that takes you to pre-cooking ranges age. An earthy, sweet flavour bursts in the mouth as one takes a bite. The rest four senses stand still. Such is the spell cast by the flavours.
Floored!
P.S.: Jamaluddin tells Skeety that the kheer sold at his shop became famous as “bade mian’s kheer”, when food writer Rahul Verma started calling it so.
Location:
From the mouth of Chawri Bazaar metro station, start walking towards Lal Kuan. On your right, you will find this shop. Skeety can give you the exact location, but then she’s never upto any good. *wink*

Dilli meets London @ Prezzo (from the London Diary)

A shopping spree at Harrow led the girlies to St. Georges Shopping Centre for a much needed lunch at Prezzo (serving Italian cuisine). For vegetarians it is rocket science to read through that menu and stay sane to order.
The girlies managed. (These girlies o’course are Skeety and the Nuttiest Nut)15 minutes of consultation and contemplation later they ordered some fries and Mozzarella in Carrozza with Podomoro sauce. Mozzarella in Carozza is essentially Mozzarella cheese deep-fried in breadcrumbs served with a tomato-based pomodoro sauce. And ofcourse coke.
The Mozzarella in Carrozza was a bite of heaven! It was made to perfection and served at just the right tempature.
They then ordered a Margherita Pizza for the main course from the Calzone menu which Prezzo offers. The Pizza was nice and that’s about all Skeety would like to say about it.The array of sinful desserts they serve could not tempt the two tummies to overeat after stuffing in the above.
As for the service, the staff were a little indifferent even when the restaurant had only three tables occupied at that hour.
When the food is excellent, ambience a classic and staff resembles a mouth blister, it seems as if the cake has been robbed of that fabulous piece of decor. Sigh!
P.S.: This is one of the few posts from Skeety’s London Diary which may be written about here when Skeety so desires.

Location: St Georges Shopping Centre, St Ann’s Road, Harrow, Middlesex, HA1 1HS0208 4279588

On Google Maps for St.Georges Shopping Centre

Daulat ki Chaat

Ever heard people visiting Kinari Bazaar on a Sunday when all shops are closed for trade?
Well, Skeeter did just that on a not-so-happening Sunday a few moons ago.
And why is Skeeter telling that to you on Delhi Foodies’ Zone?
Well, she unearthed a culinary treasure on the same Sunday and the pleasure will double by sharing the experience here 🙂
Walking through Kinari Bazaar, eating golgappe from the street vendor, clicking unusually coloured doors, Skeety stumbled upon the Daulat ki Chaat vendor.
She went right past him, and a few moments of brainwork later it struck that this could be the elusive DC vendor!
Since Skeety had walked only a few steps ahead, she hurriedly made a U-turn and was relieved to see the DC vendor right there!
Lucky!
By asking the vendor it was confirmed that the stuff he was carrying was indeed the famed Daulat ki Chaat!
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Skeeter’s excitement knew no bounds.
She promptly asked the vendor for a serving of DC and the fun began…
Our man Khemchand Adesh Kuamr was quite zapped at the number of questions that were put to him by Skeety.
Nonethless, he was sweet enough to answer all of them with a pleasant smile.
And before Skeety tells you about the conversation, here is something one should know. The ‘chaat’ that is being written about here is not the spicy aloo/papdi chat but it is a sweet, froth-like substance. Yes. Brows down please! Skeeter shall explain.
DC’s is essentially made from air, dew drops, sugar and milk froth.
Due to the legendary notes attached to the recipe of this ‘oh-to-die-for’ delicacy, the preparation begins at night. Milk is kept outisde the homes during winter nights to let the dew drops set in. Early morning the dew-kissed milk is taken inside and whipped till it has a lot of froth over it (The more the dew, the more is the froth. So dew holds the key to this preparation). The froth is now transferred to a big vessel and sprinkled with bhoora or unrefined sugar, khoya and pista slivers. The final touch to the presentation is given by kesar and vark which is a thin edible silver sheet. And just before pouring it out to the customer in a leaf-bowl, some khurchan is added to it.
Our man puts the DC laden vessel atop a criss-crossed three-legged stool which is refers to as his ‘khomcha’ and sets off early morning to sell it at Kinari Bazaar which is exactly where Skeeter was graced by his otherwise-elusive presence.
You could look for him in Kinari Bazaar at Chandni Chowk or you may bump into him elsewhere if you are so destined. You might not always be graced by his presence as he makes and serves DC for weddings as well.

Skeety believes there are atleast 5 such vendors in Chandni Chowk area. Another DC vendor called Nandu has been spotted selling the stuff near Kuccha Pati Ram in Bazaar Sitaram.

If you have been unlucky enough to not have bumped into any of the DC vendors at Chandni Chowk and are adventurous enough, there are shops in Aminabad area of Lucknow where the Daulat ki Chaat is sold unde the name Malai Makhan.
And just before Skeeter was publishing this post, a chat with Deepak, fellow Delhi Foodie and friend who just returned from Lucknow tells that Malai Makhan is also called Nimish there…
Keep EATING 🙂
Location: On the large, in Kinar Bazaar and Bazaar Sitaram.
On Google Map for Kinari Bazaar
Price: Rs.10-15 for a plate of the heavenly stuff.

Lastly, Skeeter got featured in one of her favourite magazines: Time Out. Here’s a dekko –

Hairy tales@ The Big Chill

When restros, bars or cafes goof up, they often apologise with words and a complimetary something to make the patrons happy. Worldwide practise this. But rare is the case when you get abused (well sort of) by way of being told SO, WHAT DO YOU WANT?

Skeety was up in fumes when the Bannofee pie @ The Big Chill, Khan Market had a 2-centimetres long hair hanging from it!

Skeety showed it to the staff and it was replaced. As Skeety didn’t want to upset herself on a holiday, and also thought it to be a one-off incident, she ate the replacment.

And lo! When the plate was about to be sent back Skeety realised the presence of ANOTHER hair in her plate, this time. TWICE in the same hour on the same bloody table.

The manager was called for.

He said SORRY, which didn’t sound one bit genuine (from the heart types). Rather it didn’t sound like a sorry at all. He refused to share the owner’s number as well. But he did insist on ANOTHER replacement. GUTS I tell you!

When Skeety refused the offer, the Manager said, SO WHAT DO YOU WANT?

Skeety does NOT and WILL NOT eat from a dirty kitchen EVER AGAIN. Also, by means of this post, SMS-es and other means Skeety is ensuring that her friends stay off the DIRTY PLACE as well…

When your hard-earned money leaves a bad taste in the mouth all you can shout out is:

ROT IN HELL!

P.S.: A few friends asked that WHY did Skeety pay the bill. Answer: In the hope that they might give their chefs and other staff money for shaves and haircuts…

Never going there again!

Something, anything…

This blog is, from this day, dedicated to the memory of Sabina Sehgal Saikia. Skeets had always wanted to make her read this blog. Alas Skeety was unable to do that in time. In 10 months to be precise. This someone is one of the few people who sowed the seeds of ‘love for food’ in Skeety.
And then, Skeety wants to thank R. Thank You R for asking ‘that’ question. Thanks for setting a few very important things right. Thanks for everything. Be with Skeets.
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For change this ain’t no food post per se. But then it does revolve around food. It has to! Innit?
A very random post this. Perhaps best describes the *floating* state of mind.’
WE BEGIN
Skeets was sitting at a certain ‘Subway’ in a certain locality in NCR. Enjoying a fresh BIG plate of crispy iceberg lettuce topped with yum yum gherkins, yum yum jalapenos, yum yum balck olives, yum yum tomatoes, cool cool cucumbers and YUMMIEST of them all the Sweet Onion dressing 🙂 So? That’s normal. Eh? NO!!!
Skeety got stares. From EVERY single person who was present there. The only good thing today was that Skeety chewing away the salad more merrily than a cow or sheep chew on their pasture 😛
Skeets acknowledged yet ignored stares. Spoke to the self in the mind. Had a nice time basically. And one day Skeets shall share with you a list of restaurants in Delhi where you do NOT get stares for being an unaccompanied girl, eating merrily in a restaurant.
Girls can have all the fun! 😀

Idli Do-sa

Heylo my dearies!
Skeets is back with one of her favourite meals of all time: Idli Do-sa…In Rajasthani/Marwadi dialect the title of this post means idli do (give) sa (a mark of respect while adressing someome). So you see Skeets was just playing up her phonetically challenged side here 🙂
And now back to business err..gluttony 😀

While the Nuttiest Nut was on her Dill visiti, Skeets and the Nut had intense discussions about ‘Where to Eat’ South Indian food. Sagar Ratna was an easy option but Skeets and Nut were looking for something different. And Skeets beats her head a thousand times against the wall (somewhat like Dobby), everytime she thinks how carelessly she forgot the Oh-so Yummyilicious Naivedyam, and went to Duh-so Crappy Madras Coffee House in Connaught Place (Andhra Bhavan was full) Grrrrrr….
Anyway we learn from mistakes. Skeets learnt that due to her forgetful nature she should maintain a ‘Where to Go’ diary for emergencies of the gastronomical nature.
Months later, a visit to Naivedyam was another of Skeeter’s lone food expeditions. On a rather warm summer afternoon, the need for some time with the self, the need to be in a rather quiet corner of the city, enjoying what Skeeter loves the most (food)…it all turned out just PERFECT!

Skeets entered the place at aroudn 1 pm to find the eatery almost empty. Skeets was kinda glad as now all the attention at Naivedyam was focussed on Skeeter’s food. With such happy thoughts in mind she went ahead and ordered Dahi Idli (Rs.55) to start with. Skeeter got two poppadums (papad) and a glass of Hot n Tangy Rasam (all complimentary). And before the waiters could blink an eye, all this was resting in Skeeter’s tummy.
Now the eyes were fixed at the kitchen door for the Dahi Idlis to appear. And they came sooner than expected. The service was prompt. As Skeeter nibbled on the soft soft idlis, the mouth experienced a burst of flavours: the mustard seeds (rai), the dahi and the cheeni (yoghurt and sugar), and o’course the best of them all, the slight burnt dry chilli flavour, adding an undertone to all the others.
Next in line was the Udupi Masala Dosai (yeah the spellings are correct) pegged @ Rs.60. And it was made to perfection.And a glass of lime water complemented the Dosai very well.

Brief note:
Food and service 5/5.
Ambience: Comfortable and easy.

Address: 1 Hauz Khas Village, New Delhi
Ph: 011-26960426

Dilli: City of Sins


Dilli’s Delight,
It seems so, but isn’t light,
Let the sweet tooth dig into a sinful bite,
It will set your taste buds tickling and tune them JUST right…

Chandni Chowk beckoned Skeeter yet again. This time it was for childhood love. Skeeter fondly remembers being driven by dad to the ‘kone wali’ shop (Corner shop) for ‘Hot and Sweet’ Jalebis, when she was a child. And when she grew up she was enlightened about the name of the shop. It is aptly named ‘Old and Famous Jalebiwala’. Having a tradition of making and serving Jalebis running for over 100 years, what better name could the shop possibly have?
Even more fascinating and dramatic is the location of the shop, for it is located right at the beginning of the famous Dariba Kalan or the Silver Street. The location is also known as Dariba Nukkad (Dariba corner). The entire set-up is bound to make one high and nostalgic. Best dessert and best silver-jewellery shops. They also serve samosas but Skeeter has never cared to taste them because Jalebis RULE.

Kailash Jain the owner of the shop poses with a smile for Skeeter. He has been running the shop for the past 30 years and is Skeeter’s ‘Jalebi Uncle’.

For those readers who aren’t aware of what Jalebis are, here’s Skeeter throwing some light: An Indian dessert, it is made of crisp coils of dough, deep-fried, and thereafter dipped briefly in sugar syrup for the royal taste. Best had hot during winters. Skeeter does not like this explanation, nevertheless it is here for your benefit.
History: The recipe of Jalebis is widely claimed to have originated in the Indian city of Punjab, though they are consumed in Pakistan and Bangladesh as well.

Geography: Round and round and more… (like pretzels but not really so)

Maths: To be had hot PLUS to be had with dipped in boiled milk (for relief from congestion, so day the elderly and the wise), PLUS/MINUS Can be had with/without rabdi.

Skeeter’s take: Go to the Old and Famous JalebiWala’s shop. Eat it there when a fresh lot is made. Don’t be greedy else you may burn your tongue.

Address:

1795, Dariba Corner , Chandni Chowk , Delhi- 110006

Damages: Rs.100 per half a kilogram.

Spaghetti has a House

Skeets was eyeing Spaghetti House (like she eyes so many other places), since the few times that she went past it. And while she was on the Open Bus Tour of London and was hungry like crazy she RAN to Spaghetti House before anyone could stop her. The Little One was accompanying her 🙂 Rare moments those.
The Little One and Skeety have varied choices. The Little One mostly plays it safe while Skeety experiments.
So, this time round, they ordered two dishes, one each to suit both tastes. There was no time for a full course meal, so only the main course and drinks (soft) were ordered.
The Little One ordered a stone-oven baked Margherita Pizza (Le Pizze Stone) and Skeets ordered Formaggi (Italian Cheese platter).

The Pizza was a simple yet flavourful treat. It made Skeets wonder yet again, that why do people prefer to top this delicacy with so many vegetables and season it with Paprikas and Oreganos of the world. Skeety’s take: Keep it simple, enjoy the cheese, the crust and the flavour of the wood (that it has absorbed ) in which it has been baked. Simple sins are what her gourmet senses protest earnestly for (most of the times).


So much for the slice.
Now Formaggi.
The Formaggi was something The Little One laughed at. Gorgonzola, Bella Paese, Provolone cheese served along with biscuits/crackers. Not the Little One’s cuppa T you know…

Now the Formaggi tasting notes:

Gorgonzola – The soft blue-veined cheese (texture may vary to be crumbly as well). Skeets does not like this one in its solid form, she prefers it in spaghetti and the likes…
Bella Paese/Bel Paese – A semi-soft cheese which went good with the biscuits/crackers…The word means “a beautiful country” (in Italian)
Provolone – A hard, slightly pungent cheese…best had with wine.

The meal ended with a cup of Illy Coffee with Italian raw cane sugar added to it. Perfect cuppa!
Service was prompt but the staff were not very attentive.

Where:
66 Haymarket SW1Y 4RF
Tel: 020 7839 3641
London.
(Near Cupid’s bow)
Nearest tube staton: Piccadilly

Hare Krishna Hare Ram!

Ah so Skeety is back with another experience to share with friends….Oops she means quite a few of them….only that all will take some time to post. Before we move forward, this is to tell you that Skeets is taking a break from Delhi, and is in London visiting Nearly Headless Nick. So we shall have some foodie delights from London 🙂
One of the best gifts of the ISKCON- International Society for Krishna Consciousness to Indians (or for that matter to all vegetrians and Vegans) in London, is Govinda’s restaurant.
Govinda’s do freshly cooked meals and call them what is known as the ‘Karma free diet’ (For details click HERE). Onions, garlic and mushrooms are completely off the ingredients used in cooking. And so are eggs, meat and fish!

Skeety along with Nearly Headless Nick shared a Thali which contained Rice -cooked to perfection, Whole wheat buns, Rajma -with rai/black mustard but tasted fine, excellent yellow and green lentils/dal with a strong hint of hing, side salad with dressing, Broccoli and potatoes – variation of the famed Gobhi Aloo (funny innit?), Koftas (suspected gobhi again) and fried papad or popaddum, all this for a reasonable 6.95 Sterling Pounds. A very sweet foodie who visited the same place about 20+ years back tells Skeety that the price of the same Thali was 1 Sterling Pound, back then!!! 😀

The Apple Crumble is recommended (it looked DELICIOUS). And some other items on their menu are samosas, strawberry lassi (was delicious but nowhere near the Indian lassi), pakodas, cheese burger, Lasagne, Kulfi, Gateaux et al.
Noticed: There are separate prices (read cheaper) if you choose to dine at the tables placed on the sidewalk outside the restaurant.
Also noticed: The customers are very very very very pleasantly looked after (a delight), but the staff is a bit too slow. Good and not-so-bad make it fine, Skeety guesses.
Location: 10 Soho Street, London W1D (The central line of the London Tube takes you to Oxford Circus from where you have to take the bus and get down at Soho and go asking for Soho square on foot).

Reception phone: +44(0)20 7437 3662

To have a look at the Take Away Menu click HERE.